ASA in Croatia: The Food of the Gods

By: Flotillas

This blog is about ASA’s 2012 Croatia Flotilla. Dubrovnik to Split, September 2012. “Every fish should swim three times,” goes a Croatian saying. “First in the sea, then in olive oil, and finally in wine.” The residents of the Dalmatian Coast live by this creed, and their cuisine, a divine fusion of Italian and Greek styles, demonstrates why. Of all the delicious repasts we ate during the 2012 Croatia flotilla (and there were many), one stands out in my memory, not only as a meal, but as a unique experience that you can only get while sailing. It began, as …

ASA in Croatia: Medieval Mysteries

By: Flotillas

This is a story about ASA’s 2012 Croatia Flotilla. For more info on upcoming ASA sailing flotillas, click here. Sailors (and tourists of all kinds) have beaten a well-worn path through the Mediterranean, particularly in places like Greece, Italy, and Spain. These are the world’s most ancient sailing grounds, and they richly deserve their reputations for beauty and splendor. But Croatia’s a bit different. Having only been open to tourists for about 15 years, following virtually 800 years of war and strife, you might expect the place to be a bit rough around the edges. But it’s actually quite the …

Cruising Croatia: Lightning Strikes Twice

By: American Sailing Association, Flotillas

This is a special guest blog by Captain Jean de Keyser, who led ASA’s 2011 Croatia flotillas and operates Gulfcoast Sailing School, an ASA affiliate in Punta Gorda, FL. You can read Part One here. PART TWO As the first ASA flotilla came to an end on September 3, the participants for the next week’s event had already started checking in at the Trogir Palace Hotel. Mila was on hand to welcome them and to help them get settled. Everybody was in great spirits and looking forward to the upcoming trip. We decided to change the itinerary and, instead of …

Cruising Croatia: From James Bond to Marco Polo

By: American Sailing Association, Flotillas, Members

This is a special guest blog by Captain Jean de Keyser, who led ASA’s 2011 Croatia flotillas and operates Gulfcoast Sailing School, an ASA affiliate in Punta Gorda, FL. PART ONE On August 26 crew members from all over the U.S.A. gathered in the Trogir Palace Hotel located just outside of the stunningly beautiful medieval city of Trogir, Croatia. A spread of Dalmatian specialties consisting of cured ham, local cheeses, salads, wines and delicious bread awaited them during this initial meeting of the first week’s ASA flotilla, the first of many delicious Croatian meals to be had. ASA members from …

Sirocco and Bora Bora Breezes

By: American Sailing Association, Flotillas, Members, Weather

Continuing “Croatian Tapestry” The builders of Korcula were excellent urban planners. Inside the walled city the narrow alleyways feel mazelike, but in fact they are laid out in parallel lines with only a couple cross streets running the entire length. The ancient builders positioned the streets this way to take advantage of the seasonal winds: Warm Sirocco breezes are the city’s natural air conditioning in summer, while the cold northern Bora Boras, coming from the perpendicular direction in the winter, are blocked out. Our passage back to Milna from Korcula gave us first-hand experience of the biting Bora Bora, beginning …

The Scientific Testing of Sladoleds

By: American Sailing Association, Flotillas, Members

Continuing “Croatian Tapestry” We woke up early in Hvar to proper gusts straining us back on our mooring ball and a half-chafed through bow line. I’d been up the whole night checking and half-expecting this, but the grim reality of having to cast off at 6am in the dark was an abrupt awakening nevertheless. We scooted across the choppy channel to Palmizana to meet up with the rest of the group (we were a bit scattered out because moorings were so scarce the night before). The wild wind on that short early morning ride got my adrenaline pumping and reminded …

Fighting for Hvar

By: American Sailing Association, Flotillas, Members

Continuing “Croatian Tapestry” The sail between Komiza and Hvar was a stretch in and out of lulls and wind alleys, which made for an active day at the helm. And rounding the corner as Hvar Town harbor came into view, I thought “it appears it will be an active night as well.” Hvar from seaward looked every bit the chic Euro vacation destination—a waterfront dotted with posh lounges and beds, yachts lining the seawall, and vendors’ shops crowding the sidewalks. There’s good reason why Hvar is so popular, we came to find out on our evening stroll through town. But …

Six brandies, two kittens, and one lamb

By: American Sailing Association, Flotillas, Members

Continuing “Croatian Tapestry” The destination for our second day was the tiny island of Vis. After a lunchtime stop at Tito’s private submarine base (which we dinghy’d into with homemade sangria in hand!), we sailed around the point into the beautiful cove of Luka Vis. And this was the view out the stern where we moored: We had a couple of hours of down time before the taxis arrived to transport all of us to a family winery up in the hills for dinner. We bought some more prsut and nectarines from the market and walked along the rolling waterfront …

Pag Cheese, Please

By: American Sailing Association, Charter, Flotillas, Members

Continuing “Croatian Tapestry” I rather dread the process of provisioning. Some people might enjoy it, but I’m so finicky about what I eat at any given moment that I dislike having to decide and plan for it in advance. Croatia was the antidote to my provisioning ills–in fact we didn’t have to provision at all, due to the fact that in every island town, no matter how small, local markets abounded with fresh produce, meats, cheeses, wines, and everything else you’d want to nibble on while sailing the Adriatic. The market in Trogir, our port of departure, was the most …